Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)

Title: 
Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)

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Object Name: 
Necklace
Title: 
Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)
Accession Number: 
2013.3.6
Dimensions: 
Overall H: 2 cm, Diam (max): 18 cm
Location: 
Not on Display
Date: 
designed 1927
Credit Line: 
Purchased in part with funds from Elaine and Stanford Steppa
Web Description: 
Composed of 46 acid-etched colorless dahlia beads and 23 frosted and polished amber flat beads, this necklace was designed by René Lalique to be worn by the era’s New Woman. Compared with his earlier Art Nouveau jewels, which were one-of-a-kind objects for an elite clientele, such necklaces were designed to be mass-produced for middle-class customers. Lalique’s new designs reflected the women of the 1920s, who not only fought for the right to vote but also began to take part in traditionally male activities, such as driving, smoking, and drinking. Art Deco fashion reflected these changing roles by adopting bold and bright patterns, dropped waists, and higher hemlines worn over an uncorseted body. As a master jeweler and glassmaker, Lalique began experiments with glass as early as 1891 and continued to dazzle with new styles and new techniques for almost 50 years. Just as his jewelry—displayed at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris— was seen as the epitome of Art Nouveau fashion, his designs were found in every corner of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, also in Paris, which signaled the beginning of the Art Deco period. Lalique elevated pressed and molded glassware to a fine art form through his unique designs and creative mass production techniques. In 1912, the Norwegian critic and fine arts commissioner J. Nilsen Laurvik observed that Lalique’s “accomplished craftsmanship has enabled him to utilize the services of the machine without in the least affecting the artistic quality of his productions. In his hands it is no longer mechanically meaningless; it has become a tool of the artist wherewith he may communicate his ideas to a greater number than was ever possible to the craftsman of old.”* Unsigned. Published: Kelley Elliott, Elizabeth Everton, and Tina Oldknow, René Lalique: Enchanted by Glass, Corning: The Corning Museum of Glass in association with Yale University Press, 2014, pp. 82–83; and Félix Marcilhac, René Lalique, 1860– 1945, maître-verrier. Analyse et catalogue raisonné de l’oeuvre de verre, Paris: Editions de l’Amateur, 2011, p. 560. For more information about Lalique glass, see Nicholas M. Dawes, Lalique Glass, New York: Crown Publishers Inc., 1986. * J. Nilsen Laurvik, René Lalique, New York: Haviland & Co., 1912, p. 12.
Department: 
Provenance: 
Bonhams, Source
2013-04-24
Category: 
Material: 
Primary Description: 
Necklace, "Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)". Colorless glass, amber or orange glass, elastic cord; press-molded, assembled. Colorless and acid-etched mold-pressed glass beads in the dahlia design (46), are interspersed with amber (or orange) frosted and polished mold-pressed glass beads (23), creating 23 repeating patterns of the Dahlia et rondelles plates design. The necklace is strung on a modern elastic cord.
(CANCELLED) Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass (VERO BEACH)
Venue(s)
Vero Beach Museum of Art 2020-10-10 through 2021-01-03
From his earliest designs in jewelry to his later production of glass objects, René Lalique (French, 1860─1945) was enchanted by the properties and capabilities of glass. This exhibition brings together over 200 objects from the very personal to the public, all dating from about 1893 to Lalique’s death in 1945. As a designer, Lalique embraced change, set fashion, and created and nurtured a company whose luxury glass products appealed to customers inspired by the fast-moving and libertine impulses of Modern life. Lalique and his company used industrial innovations, including mechanization, in glass production. These objects, however, are not mass-produced: each one was worked by hand at multiple stages of its production. Informed by the styles of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in France, Lalique’s designs and the luxury objects he created have become iconic reflections of these periods. Copies of the accompanying 384-page publication are available for purchase. Published by the Museum, in association with Yale University Press, this lavishly illustrated book features contributed essays that examine Lalique’s life and career, and the history of the Lalique collection at The Corning Museum of Glass.
Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass (CHRYSLER)
Venue(s)
Chrysler Museum of Art 2017-09-14 through 2018-01-21
The Chrysler presents a comprehensive look at one of the most influential designers of the 20th century, René Lalique, who combined artistry and industrialization to bring luxury to the masses. Trained as a jewelry designer in the Art Nouveau style, he freelanced for Cartier and Boucheron before opening his own shop in 1885. By 1890, jewelry from his Parisian studio was the favorite of celebrities and social elites. His experiments with glass in jewelry steadily grew into a pursuit of its own, and within a few years his beautifully crafted perfume bottles were quite the rage. By 1909, he was mass-producing them in a factory. This exhibition focuses on Lalique’s work with glass and covers decades of creativity. As tastes moved from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, he had the luxury of being hailed as a leader and innovator in both. By the time of his 1945 death, Lalique had left an indelible mark on glass art—producing jewelry, medallions, bottles, tableware, smoking accessories, lamps, clocks, even automobile mascots, more commonly known as radiator caps or hood ornaments today. This exhibition includes historic images from a storied period of French history. It includes one of his patent applications, and it provides even further insight into his methods by way of production molds and design drawings. René Lalique: Enchanted by Glass will be on view Sept. 14, 2017, through Jan. 21, 2018, and admission is free. The exhibition debuted at the Corning Museum of Glass on May 17, 2014. It was curated by Kelley Elliott, the assistant curator for modern and contemporary glass at the upstate New York institution. As the Chrysler will present this exhibition in a larger space than the original show, we’ll feature additional selected Lalique works from both gracious private collectors and the Chrysler’s permanent collection. A fully illustrated catalogue accompanies the show and is available in The Museum Shop.
 
Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass
Venue(s)
Corning Museum of Glass 2014-05-16 through 2015-01-04
This major exhibition will bring together glass, jewelry, production molds, and design drawings by René Lalique (French, 1860─1945), dating from about 1893 to Lalique’s death in 1945. As a successful jeweler Lalique experimented with glass in his designs, which eventually led to a career in which he fully embraced the material. His aesthetic choices in his designs informed the styles of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in France, and the objects he created have become iconic reflections of these periods. Lalique also embraced industrial innovations, like mass production, allowing luxury glass to be placed in more and more households around the world.
The Corning Museum of Glass: Notable Acquisitions 2013 (2014) illustrated, p. 52 (#34);
Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass (2014) illustrated, p. 82-83 (no. 5); BIB# 139598
Notes: Corning Museum Adds Major Work to Glass, Library Collections (2014) illustrated, p. 386, #26; BIB# AI100158